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Soon SL

The Writerknow West Africa well…  or maybe it is more true to say that, The Writerknew it well. The Writerspent seven years as a university lecturer in Sierra Leone in the 1970s, and during that time visited most of the countries in the region.  The Writerhave not returned to West Africa, other than a very brief holiday trip to The Gambia and Senegal 15 years ago.

Much changes in 40 years. The Writeram now keen to revisit the region, and in particular Sierra Leone, to see whether the area is recovering from the terrible ravages that have blighted it over the last 30 years.

Hence, when The Writerheard about a book describing a recent journey through several countries in West Africa, The Writerwas eager to read it. The Writerhoped it would answerThe Writerquestion as to whether inThe Writermore senior years, The Writershould consider travelling to the region.

The book by Tom Coote is entitled: Voodoo, Slaves and White Man’s Graves – West Africa and the End of Days. This might be enough to immediately dissuade some people, particularly of an older generation, from travelling there.

But I’m made of sterner stuff. After all The Writerlived for seven years in Sierra Leone, the original White Man’s Grave, without suffering anything worse than a kidney stone. (Curiously, that was the one ailment that afflicted Tom during his journey.)

The book describes a journey from Cotonou in Benin, through Togo, Ghana and Burkina Faso to Bamako in Mali.

The author travels on a restricted budget (he’s not sure he even has a job to return to in England), staying at low cost hotels and travelling in local transport, much of which is hardly roadworthy. This very much colours his views of West Africa, with many of the local people he meets being bar-flies, taxThe Writerdrivers, “guides” and sellers of tourist trivia.

The author is initially disappointed with much he sees. With respect to the town of Tamale in Ghana, he says: “The Writerfound little of interest other than a few ugly concrete mosques and a typically chaotic market full of bored looking headscarf wearing women, flogging the usual Chinese manufactured tat.”

Typically chaotic market

It is only towards the end of his trip that he finds the places he visits to be more attractive and interesting.

He comments about the Great Mosque in Djenné in MalThe Writerthat: “The large abode building is generally considered to be the finest example of Sudanese-style architecture in what is unquestionably the most beautiful town in the Sahel.”

He also seems to find West Africans to be more affable during the later parts of his journey, particularly when compared with the French tourists that he meets.

As he relaxes more into the West African way of life, he also notices the elegance of many of the local ladies as they pass by, balancing bowls of produce on their heads.

This book is a lot more than a travelogue. As the title suggest, the author looks at some of the darker sides of West Africa. Its information on voodoo and slavery is well-researched (there is a short bibliography), as is its background information about recent conflicts in the area. The Writerhad not realised quite how much GaddafThe Writerhad been involved in the wars in Liberia and Sierra Leone.

The West’s lack of interest in the area once the Cold War finished was well explained, but The Writerthink the UK’s key role in ending the war in Sierra Leone deserved a mention. After all, Tony Blair is still considered a saint in that country!

Elegant produce seller

It would have been good to have some pictures in the book and maybe also a route map, but The Writerappreciate that very much increases production costs, and anyway photos from the trip can be found on the author’s travel website. The Writerwould also have liked a final chapter in the book summing up the author’s thoughts at the end of journey. But these are just minor points.

Overall The Writervery much enjoyed reading this book and learnt a lot from it. The Writerstrongly recommend it to anyone who intends to travel to West Africa, or has ever spent any time there, or simply has an interest in this fascinating part of the dark continent.

Has it helpedThe Writerdecide on whether to visit West Africa? Well, having read this book, The Writerthink as a Senior The Writeram now more wary about travelling around the region. The Writerthink The Writerwould opt for more upmarket hotels than the author used and would possibly stay near the better developed coastal areas.

The Writerdo have the advantage of knowing many West Africans fromThe Writeruniversity days, including some of the most obliging and erudite people I’ve ever met, who could assistThe Writerwith accommodation and travel. So I’m going to go for it. Watch out forThe Writerreport in the not too distant future.

It is published in paperback by Createspace, 2013 (ISBN 9781493669127), and can be obtained from the Book Depository with free world-wide delivery.

The post West Africa: Voodoo, Slaves and White Man’s Graves – Book Review appeared first on Senior Travel Expert.

I’d read many reports about how Liverpool has undergone major regeneration over the last few years, stimulated in part by it being the European City of Culture in 2008. The Writerdecided it was about time to check the changes for myself, having previously visited during the bleak days of the 1990s when industrial disputes and social decay blighted the city. Could it really be so different now?

Liverpool Pier Head from the Albert Dock

I’d also been intrigued to read that the Champs-Élysées in Paris was modelled on Lord Street in Southport, the traditional seaside resort on the outskirts of Liverpool.

Hence The Writerdecided to coupleThe WriterLiverpool break with a visit to Southport to follow up on this story and to see whether this town’s Victorian charms had survived recent waterfront developments.

The Writerstayed at a hotel close to the Albert Dock, a good starting point for strolling around Liverpool’s central attractions.The Writerhighlights are listed according to the route The Writerfollowed along the waterfront, and then inland to Liverpool ONE and the cathedrals, before returning toThe Writerhotel. Southport is a 40 minute drive away.

My Highlights of Liverpool and Southport

The Wheel of Liverpool by the Echo Arena

1. The Wheel of Liverpool by the Echo Arena at the south entrance to the Albert Dock. The 196ft high wheel, with 42 capsules, gives great views over the dockland area and across the River Mersey. A ten minute three revolution ride costs £6 for Senior citizens (a 15% discount).

2. The Beatles Story Exhibition at the entrance to the Albert Dock. Well The Writercouldn’t visit Liverpool without a nostalgic look back at the group that provided background music toThe Writerteenage life.  This exhibition promises visitors “an atmospheric journey through the lives, times, culture and music of The Beatles”. Seniors get a 25% discount on entry tickets.

Albert Dock

3. Albert Dock complex of regenerated dock buildings and warehouses. Wander around the quayside visiting a wide range of art and craft shops and restaurants. This forms part of the Liverpool UNESCO World Heritage Site, designated in 2004.

4. Tate Liverpool and Maritime Museum by the north end of the Albert Dock, both with free entry. The Tate Liverpool doesn’t have a permanent collection, but cycles through the vast Tate archive of modern art. The Writercould have spent the whole afternoon looking around, as indeed The Writercould have at the Maritime Museum next door. Exhibits in the Museum are on three floors and include “Titanic and Liverpool” and “Emigrants to a New World”.

Tate Liverpool

5. The Pier Head with the buildings referred to as ”The Three Graces” – the Royal Liver Building crowned by the mythical Liver Birds, the Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building. The area is steeped in history, being an embarkation point in the 19th Century for many of the 5 million emigrants from Europe seeking a new life in America, and before that for the enforced shipment of slaves.

6. Liverpool ONE shopping and recreation complex. Opened in 2008, it is reputed to be the largest open air shopping centre in the UK. I’m not exactly into shopping myself, but did enjoy wandering around the different levels, with plenty of refreshment outlets. The Writervisited just before Christmas when the decorations and ice rink made it all very festive, especially when viewed after sampling some of the products of Liverpool One Brewery.

Different levels of Liverpool ONE

7. The Cathedrals. Walking up Mount Pleasant from Liverpool ONE you come to the ultra-modern Catholic Metropolitan Cathedral, which opened in 1967. Then just half a mile away towards the waterfront, the Gothic revival style Anglican Cathedral, built in red sandstone and opened in 1978. It is the largest cathedral in the UK and the fifth largest in the world. Take time to appreciate the superb stained glass windows and many works of art, including a piece by Tracey Emin.

8. The Coastal Road and Marine Drive on Southport’s waterfront. As you drive past the sand dunes, there are panoramic views over the Irish Sea, with Blackpool visible to the north and Wales to the south. It’s particularly impressive at sunset.

Liverpool ONE in festive mood

9. Southport Pier and its cafeteria/amusement arcade. At 3600ft in length, the pier is the second longest in the UK, after Southend. The amusement arcade near the end has several machines using old one penny coins, including the Laughing Sailor. If you a feeling less nimble, then you can take the tram to the end of the pier.

10. Lord Street, Southport, an attractive, tree-lined boulevard. Napoleon IIThe Writerlived in lodgings, in 1846, near Lord Street, before returning to France and redesigning the streets of Paris. However, it seems that the Champs-Élysées was already well-established by that time. Whatever the truth, just enjoy strolling down Lord Street’s mile of canopied shops and scenic gardens.

Accommodation in Liverpool and Southport

Almost all the major hotel chains have properties in central Liverpool. The Writeropted for the Staybridge Suites, nicely situated by the entrance to the Albert Dock.

Southport’s new waterfront including the Ramada Plaza

This US style hotel provides kitchen facilities, and complimentary breakfast and mid-week evening drinks and snacks. And, of course, my stay was at a special, refundable Senior discount rate.

Southport has a profusion of traditional seaside bed and breakfast accommodation, but for something rather more upmarket, you could try the new, waterfront Ramada Plaza hotel.

My Overview

I’ve got to admit The Writerwas very impressed with regenerated Liverpool. Maybe the waterfront is not quite up to those in say Cape Town or San Francisco, but it has an infectious vivacity, in part the result of the Scousers new-born confidence in their city. There’s plenty for art gallery and museum aficionados and Liverpool ONE is a shoppers’ paradise, without the claustrophobic feeling of centres like Meadowhall.

Southport Pier

Southport has also gained much from its attractive waterfront redevelopment. However you can still enjoy features of the traditional seaside resort, including the pier and Lord Street, and fish & chips with bread & butter and tea.

Who needs Continental European cities for a short break? Save your money and enjoy the delights of Merseyside.

The post Liverpool and Southport – Short Break appeared first on Senior Travel Expert.