Madrid in November: Palaces, Parks and Paseos – Short Break

Madrid nestling below the Sierra de Guadarrama range

Madrid nestling below the Sierra de Guadarrama range

I’d visited almost all the capitals of Europe, but for some reason had never made it to Madrid, the capital of Spain.

The Writerknew something of the city’s fascinating history. The Writeralso knew that it is the highest capital in Europe and that it is situated at almost the exact centre of Spain.

Maybe The Writerhad been put off visiting by stories of searing heat in the summer and freezing cold in the winter. If so, then planning a trip for November might avoid these two extremes.

And that proved to be the case. During my four days in Madrid The Writerhardly saw a cloud in the sky. The temperature never went much above 11 degrees C, but in the sun it felt pleasantly warm.

Madrid Metro - Efficient and Inexpensive Service

Madrid Metro – Efficient and inexpensive service

Although Madrid is the third largest city in the EU after London and Berlin, its centre is relatively compact and flat and so can be easily toured by foot. However, for the less nimble, the Metro provides an efficient and inexpensive means of getting around.

The Writerwouldn’t include Madrid as one of my Top Ten Cities of the world, in part because it lacks the extra dimension of an attractive river or sea frontage. However it provides much for the Senior Traveller in that there are fine historic buildings, art galleries of international standing and large parks. There are many good quality hotels and restaurants in the central area that are relatively inexpensive compared to, say, London or Paris.

Overall, I most enjoyed just wandering around – ignoring the map – from tree-lined boulevard, to ancient winding backstreet, and from tightly-packed market stalls, to top brand shopping plazas. And of course taking in the odd drink and tapas along the way.

Palacio Real de Madrid

Palacio Real de Madrid

The Writerwas disappointed at the lack of information anywhere about Madrid’s role in the Spanish Civil War – something The Writerfind of particular interest. This has been commented on by David Mathieson, a Civil War expert who organises trips to important Civil War sites in the city. Next time The Writervisit Madrid, The Writerwill definitely arrange to join one of his trips.

My Ten Highlights of Madrid

These are given in the order that The Writervisited them as The Writerstrolled around the central area of Madrid.

El Rastro. The Writervisited Madrid’s flea market area on a Sunday morning, the busiest day of the week. The market dates back over 400 years and almost everything imaginable is on sale at the hundreds of stalls arranged along the narrow sloping streets.

Botin - The oldest restaurant in the world

Botin – The oldest restaurant in the world

Restaurante Sobrino de Botin. In a side street as you walk from El Rastro to the Plaza Maya, you will find the Botin, the oldest restaurant in the world (according to the Guinness World Records), dating back to 1725. The suckling pig, a favourite of Hemingway at this restaurant, is excellent, but expect to pay a 50% premium for the privilege of eating at this ancient venue.

A sister travel site gives more information on Historic Eateries in Central Spain.

Plaza Mayor. As you pass through one of the granite archways which enclose this famous central square, you suddenly find yourself in a wide open space, surrounded by buildings all of the same fine architectural design. The Writerenjoyed drinks and a plate of fine hams at Museo del Jamón, sitting outside in the afternoon sun.

Puerta del Sol

Puerta del Sol

Palacio Real de Madrid. This magnificent palace was inspired by the Louvre in Paris. Although the exterior is architecturally stunning, it is the interior that makes this the top attraction in Madrid. Of particular note are the sweeping main staircase, the Hall of Columns and the Gala Dining Room. The Writerwas also impressed with the art treasures in the side rooms, including the Stradivarius collection of violins, viola and violoncello. Seniors 65+ get a 45% reduction on the entry charge.

Puerta del Sol. The square, or more correctly half-circle, is in the bustling heart of Madrid. The Writerenjoyed watching the many street performers, although The Writermust admit that I’ve now seen rather too many of the pretend statues!

Art galleries near the Paseo del Prado. Within just a short walk along the Paseo del Prado boulevard there are three great art galleries. The Museo del Prado, a fine building in its own right, houses a vast range of masterpieces including several by Goya (50% admission discount for Seniors 65+). The Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza covers international art from the 14th to 20th Century. The Centro de Arte Reina Sofia has a superb collection of modern art including worked by Dali, Miró and Picasso. The Writerneeded much more time to view the exhibits and so this added toThe Writerlist of what to include onThe Writernext, longer trip to Madrid.

Real Jardin Botanico - Orchid display

Real Jardin Botanico – Orchid display

♦ Real Jardin Botanico. The Writeralways make a point of visiting botanic gardens, as often they are relaxing oases of tranquillity in the middle of busy cities; seeThe WriterTop Ten Gardens. Sadly, these gardens had a rather dilapidated feel to them, even taking into account the time of year. However, The Writerinclude the Real Jardin Botanico  inThe Writerhighlights because of the glasshouses which contained many unusual plants, including a fine orchid display.

Atocha Station. The old station proved too small for the high speed trains, so the beautiful wrought iron building was converted into a tropical garden. Enjoy a relaxing drink under the palms and tree ferns.

Retiro Park - Crystal Palace

Crystal Palace in Retiro Park

Retiro Park. This 350 acre park was once a royal preserve, but is now one of Madrid’s premier attractions, with monuments, sculptures, landscaped gardens and lakes. The Writerwas particularly impressed with the magnificent Crystal Palace, inspired by its long lost British namesake.

Paseo Boulevards. And finally as the sun was setting, The Writerstrolled back toThe Writerhotel along the tree-lined Paseo del Prado, Paseo de Recoletos and Paseo de la Castellana boulevards, passing several beautiful plazas and the iconic Ritz Hotel and Cibeles Fountain.

How to Get There

Several budget airlines fly from the UK to Madrid, including Easyjet, Flybe and Ryanair. The Writerflew mid-week (seeThe Writerarticle: Fly on a Tuesday!) from Liverpool for about £90 return by Easyjet; all seats are now pre-allocated, a definite plus for Senior Travellers.

Monument to Alfonso XIThe Writerin Retiro Park

Monument to Alfonso XIThe Writerin Retiro Park

The Writerpurchased a 10 journey Metrobus ticket for €12 to travel by the Metro from the airport toThe Writerhotel. This could be used by both of us and sufficed for our four-day stay in Madrid.

A supplement of €3 per person is payable when going from or to the airport – purchased either with the Metrobus ticket or separately.

Accommodation

Of the many good quality hotels in central Madrid, The Writerchose to stay at the Intercontinental Hotel on a Senior discount rate (see: Hotel Deals for Seniors). This proved to be an excellent hotel, but The Writerwould recommend upgrading to a Club Room to enjoy the complimentary breakfast and evening drinks and tapas. And of course The WritercollectedThe WriterIHG Reward Club points.

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Gifts for Senior Travellers

Christmas gifts at Pier 39 Christmas Tree, San Francisco

Pier 39 Christmas Tree, San Francisco

With the festive season now with us, here are a few ideas for gifts to give to someone special…   or maybe to treat yourself!

 

♦ Membership of English Heritage

Annual membership of English Heritage is a unique Christmas gift that lasts a whole year. And the good news for Senior Travellers is that they get big discounts. For one person 60+ it costs £37, for a couple £58. SeeThe Writerpostings on English Heritage versus National Trust and on Winter Openings.

Flying Gift

For Seniors Travellers who fancy something adventurous, then why not give a ‘Flying’ gift. Choose from helicopter rides, hot air balloons or light aircraft. You can select by UK region the flying experience that suits the person you are giving to, or yourself.

♦ Books for Senior Travellers

My list of Travel Books gives some excellent gift ideas, including  1001 Gardens You Must See Before You Die. The new paper back version can be obtained from Waterstones for £10 (a 50% discount) with free UK delivery.

The Book People: Great books at fantastic prices The Book People offer 33% discount on many travel book including Rough Guides, Berlitz and Insight Guides.     

 Ferry Minicruise to Holland or Belgium

A winter minicruise to Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Bruges or Ostend provides an unusual, but very enjoyable, Christmas gift. PO Ferries are now offering their two night minicruises on a 2 for the price of 1 basis; excellent value at only £75 for two. Entertainment is provided along the way. An extra night at the continental destination can be added. See PO Ferries to Rotterdam forThe Writercandid review of the on board experience.

 Hotel Stay  Book before Christmas & save up to 40% And get a Free Late Check Out!

Why not give a gift of a winter hotel break. There are many offers out there at the moment, including the IHG Group (Intercontinental Hotels, Crowne Plazas, Holiday Inns, Holiday Inn Expresses) offering various winter break discounts, plus free late check out. If you are treating yourself to a winter hotel break, then make certain you claim your Senior discount rate, see: Hotel Deals for Seniors.

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Brisbane and SE Queensland, Australia – Round the World: Stage 5

The weather during my exploration of New South Wales had been, to say the least, rather inclement. So The Writerwas very much hoping that the Queensland stage ofThe WriterRound the World Trip would live up to its billing as the ‘Sunshine State’.

Queensland - Central Brisbane

Central Brisbane

The Writermust admit The Writerknew very little about Queensland or its capital, Brisbane. But in three days travelling around the south-eastern tip of the state, The Writersaw enough forThe Writerto decide to return in the near future for a much longer visit. And yes, the sun shone brightly most of the time.

The Writerstayed at hotels in Brisbane and at Caloundra on the Sunshine Coast, about 60 miles north of Brisbane. The Pelican Waters Spa Hotel near Caloundra overlooked a golf course, with kangaroos grazing early morning on the fairways!

City Botanic Gardens

City Botanic Gardens

My Five Highlights of SE Queensland

• Travelling along the Brisbane River on the CityCat Ferry through the heart of Brisbane. From Bretts Wharf in the east, to The University of Queensland at St Lucia in the west, takes about 100 minutes and costs about £3. There are great views along the way and Brisbanites are happy to tell you about their city as you cruise along.

Australian Water Dragon

Australian Water Dragon

• Strolling around central Brisbane. Some parts feel almost as if you are walking through a narrow passageway beneath the massive buildings, but then suddenly you come across a fine old building or a green open space. Pause a while at the circular War Memorial in Anzac Square. The City Botanic Gardens provide an attractive oasis of tranquillity, teaming with birds and other wildlife such as the Australian water dragon.

Caloundra on the Sushine Coast

Caloundra on the Sushine Coast

• Relaxing on the attractive beach at Caloundra and enjoying the restaurants there, including an excellent Asian restaurant, the Sakon Thai.

• The Australia Zoo, set up by Steve Irwin but now run by his wife following his untimely death in 2006.  There’s much to see and do in the Zoo (over 1,000 animals in 68 acres), but make certain you see the Sumatran tigers, the koalas, the kangaroos and, of course, the crocodiles. Pensioners get a 20% discount on entry charges; strictly speaking this is for Australians, but they were quite happy to give me, a UK pensioner, the concession rate.

Mt Coonowrin, Glass House Mountains

Mt Coonowrin, Glass House Mountains

• The Glass House Mountains. These dramatic volcanic plugs, sticking out starkly above the surrounding countryside, were named by Captain Cook in 1770. He thought they resembled glass furnaces in his native Yorkshire.

That completed the Australian part ofThe Writerround the world trip. There was no problem dropping the hire car off at Brisbane airport after its 3,000 mile journey from Melbourne; then on toThe Writernext stop, Christchurch, and a tour of the South Island of New Zealand.

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Munich in October – Short Break

Think of Munich and October and you’ll probably get an image of thousands of people sitting at benches swilling down large quantities of beer, interspersed with roast pork, ham hock and pretzels. And that was the case a week or so before we arrived, as Munich celebrated the Oktoberfest along with millions of visitors.

Munich - Glockenspiel in Marienplatz

Glockenspiel in Marienplatz

Fortunately, by the time we visited, the beer-tourists had largely dispersed and Munich had an almost serene, autumnal feel to it.

The Writerhad visited Munich once before, in 1965, when it was still being rebuilt after the war. The Writerremembered bleak open spaces, unattractive buildings and walking many miles around the central area to find places of interest.

Either Munich has changed massively orThe Writermemory is playing tricks onThe Writer– probably both! What The Writerfound on this visit was certainly the open spaces, but now attractive parks, along with beautifully restored buildings, particularly within the old town. Also, and of importance to Senior travellers, the central part of the city around the old town is compact enough for pleasant, relaxed strolling around the various attractions.

Theatine Church

Theatine Church

My route tookThe Writerfrom the main market square, the Marienplatz, up past the Residence Palace to the English Garden.  The Writerthen crossed the River Isar and followed it back under the trees in their autumn finery, before crossing back over and finishing at the Victuals Market near to Marienplatz. That took the best part of a day.

The following day, I travelled by car to two attractions further out from the centre, the Nymphenburg Palace and the Olympic Park.

My Highlights of Munich

These ten highlights ofThe Writervisit are in the order in which The Writervisited them:

1. Marienplatz, the main square in the centre of Munich, flanked by the Old and New City Halls. Try and get there for 11 am, noon or 5 pm to see the display from the Glockenspiel perched high on the New City Hall tower. Thirty-two life-sizes figures, including two on horseback, act out aspects of Bavarian history. Don’t worry too much if you miss it, the buildings around the square are enough reason to visit.

Chinese Tower in the English Garden

Chinese Tower in the English Garden

2. The late Gothic Cathedral of Our Blessed Lady (Frauenkirche), close to the Marienplatz, dominates the skyline of central Munich with its spires rising to 100 metres. Apparently there are great views from the top of the towers looking towards the Bavarian Alps, but the towers are closed at the moment for urgent repairs.

3. The Residence Palace at the northern edge of the Old Town. This massive structure consists of ten courtyards and attractive, historical gardens. It was a pleasant sunny day when The Writervisited, so The Writerdecided to miss out this time on the Residence Museum, which has a fine collection of interior decoration, and the Residence Treasury, which displays priceless jewellery collected over 900 years. Both have reduced admission fees for Seniors over 65.

4. The Theatine Church (Theatiner Kirche), just beside the Residence Palace. The impressive white Baroque interior of this 17th Century church contrasts sharply with the Mediterranean yellow colour outside.

River Isar

River Isar

5. The Hofgarten, which forms a link from the Residence Palace to the English Garden. The garden was set out in the early 17th Century as an Italian style Renaissance garden. The central pavilion is dedicated to the goddess Diana.

6. The English Garden, a 900 acre oasis of tranquillity, with a small river gushing through. We stopped at the Chinese Tower near the centre and enjoyed an obligatory beer and pretzel!

Angel of Peace Monument

Angel of Peace Monument

7. River Isar Walk, along the eastern bank, leading back towards the town centre. Halfway along, you pass the Angel of Peace monument erected in thanks for 25 years of peace after the 1870/71 Franco-German war.

8. The Victuals Market (Viktualienmarkt), dating back 200 years, offering a massive collection of vegetables, fruit, cheese, meat, spices, flowers and lots more, all laid out with precision. It’s a great place for a tasty snack.

9. Nymphenburg Palace, which was built as an Italianate villa in 1663/64. It was reworked 50 years later with addition of four pavilions. The resulting massive complex includes a Porcelain Factory, elegant public rooms and extensive parkland. Seniors 65+ get a 20% reduction on entry charges to the palace.

10. Olympic Park, home of the 1972 Olympics, providing a pleasant evening walk. Look out for Father Timofej’s Russian Orthodox Chapel, built without permission from war debris, but allowed to remain when the Olympic Park was built.

Getting There

Nymphenburg Palace

Nymphenburg Palace

EasyJet flies to Munich from Stansted, Gatwick, Manchester and Edinburgh, for just over £100 return, depending on when you travel, see: Fly on a Tuesday!  It is also worth checking out British Airways from Heathrow and Glasgow, and Lufthansa from Birmingham and Manchester, as their prices are comparable to the budget airline.

Accommodation

There is an abundance of good quality accommodation in and around Munich, with almost all the major chains being represented. Don’t forget to claim your Senior discount. The Writerstayed at a small hotel to the east of the city at Messe, near the ring road, and had little difficulty driving in to the centre in the morning and finding a parking space.

Previous Short Breaks articles have featured Frankfurt and Nuremberg. The beauty of visiting cities in Germany is that they are so completely different. The most attractive aspect toThe Writerof Munich is the abundance of parkland near the centre, unlike the other two cities.

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Free Hotel Rooms with the IHG Rewards Club – News Report

I’ve long been a member of the Intercontinental Hotels Group rewards scheme. This provides free hotel rooms and other perks in exchange for points awarded for stays at hotels in the chain, which include Crowne Plazas, Holiday Inns and Staybridge Suites.

Luxurious Istanbul Intercontinental Hotel

Luxurious Istanbul Intercontinental Hotel overlooking the Bosphorus

Originally called the Priority Club, it has just been rebranded as the IHG Rewards Club. And the good news is that the rebranded scheme is proving to be a definite improvement, with good opportunities for earning bonus points.

Seniors (such as me) like to get value for money when spending their hard earned pensions, but of course do like a bit of luxury.

Over the past few years, the IHG rewards scheme has providedThe Writerwith free stays at many hotels, including Intercontinental Hotels in Istanbul and Malta and Crowne Plazas in Canberra and Key West.

It has also providedThe Writerwith free room upgrades, free WiFThe Writerand free parking, amongst other perks.

However to get the maximum benefit from the IHG Rewards Club, you need to know how to collect points effectively, including bonus points, and how to use them to maximum advantage.
IHG Rewards Club
Here areThe Writertop tips to make the most of the IHG Rewards Club.

Joining IHG Rewards Club

You can become a member simply by clicking on the black IHG Rewards Club icon at the top of the IHG Hotels webpage, and then selecting Join to add brief details. Membership is totally free of charge.

•Tip 1: Join before booking an IHG hotel so as to make certain you get points for the stay. You may also get bonus points for booking online.

Crowne Plaza, Canberra

Crowne Plaza, Canberra, Australia

Collecting Points

Once you’ve joined, you are awarded points for stays at all hotels in the IHG chain, at the rate of 10 points for every $1 US equivalent spent.

•Tip 2: Remember to claim your Senior Discount room rate when booking. You’ll still get your IHG Reward points even on the discounted rate.

•Tip 3: The key to accumulating points is to register for special bonus point promotions such as the Big Win, which can provide you with up to 90,000 points. I’ll keep you informed when The Writerfind out about new bonus promotions.

Redeeming Points

Once you have accumulated some points, you can claim free hotel rooms for 15,000 to 40,000 points per night, depending on the hotel. But as a retired or semi-retired Senior, you probably have plenty of scope to travel relatively freely and to book special room rates at short notice. HenceThe Writernext tip.

•Tip 4: Take advantage of PointBreaks. These are lists of hotels published every two or three months where an overnight stay is only 5,000 points. The lists often include top Intercontinental and Crowne Plaza hotels.

Elite Status

Historic Crowne Plaza La Concha, Key West, USA

Historic Crowne Plaza La Concha, Key West, USA

Once you are happily collecting points, then you can move on to become a Gold or Platinum member, so-called Elite status, giving extra benefits such as room upgrades.

Tip 5: A short cut to Elite status is to take out a Priority Club Rewards Visa credit card.

The basic card gives you 10,000 points when you first use it, plus 1 point for every £1 spent.

The black card gives you 20,000 points when you first use it, plus 2 points for every £1 spent. Also if you spend £10,000 in a year on the card, you will get a free night at any hotel in the IHG chain. How about trying a top Intercontinental Hotel in London, Paris or New York? The downside to this card is the annual fee of £99.

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Lake Bled, Slovenia – Short Break

The Writersuppose The Writeram a bit of an East European lake fanatic. The Writerhave a house by Lake Balaton in Hungary and have holidayed by the Plitvice Lakes in Croatia and Lake Palić in Serbia. Hence it is not surprising that The Writershould decide to check out one of the most famous lakes in Eastern Europe, Lake Bled in Slovenia.

Bled Castle

Bled Castle in October

I’d been told that the Lake Bled area is particularly scenic, with wooded slopes and high peaks forming the backdrop to the crystal clear lake. However, The Writerwas concerned that its international reputation meant that it would be packed with tourists. Retired or semi-retired Senior can often choose to visit outside the busy tourist seasons; henceThe Writerchoice of October forThe WriterLake Bled short break, in the hope that I’d avoid the crowds. Of course a big disadvantage of an autumn visit is that the weather can be quite inclement. DuringThe Writerthree day visit, The Writersaw plenty of heavy rain, some very misty mornings and just one afternoon of sunshine. But not that many tourists!

Vintgar Gorge

Vintgar Gorge dwarfs the walkway

The weather in no way spoiltThe Writershort break. The highlights ofThe Writervisit didn’t require good weather; on the contrary, two ofThe Writerhighlights, Vintgar Gorge and Savica Waterfall, are more impressive after a period of rain.

Highlights of the Lake Bled area

Cycling around Lake Bled. It is only 6km around the lake, so it’s a relaxed one hour cycle ride, with great views along the way. The hotel The Writerstayed at (see below) provided cycles free of charge. Stop halfway around for refreshments – a cold drink in the summer, a hot chocolate suited us better in October.

Bled Castle. If you are feeling fit, then take the steps from the lake shore up to the 1000 year old castle, with two courtyards on different levels. The museum, tracing the history of Bled from the Bronze Age, is well worth a visit.

Rowing to Bled Island

Rowing to Bled Island

Rowing out to Bled Island. You can travel to the island on a gondola (€12 per person) squeezed in with 20-30 other people. The Writerpreferred to hire a rowing boat (€10 per hour) and reached the island after about 15 minutes gentle rowing.

Vintgar Gorge – 4km northwest of Bled. A wooden walkway hugs the sides of the rocky ravine for 1.6km before reaching the 13m high Šum Waterfall. A bit slippery in the rain, but very impressive.

Lake Bohinj – 26km west of Bled. This is a very different lake to Bled being relatively quiet and undeveloped. The scenery is superb, with views on a clear day (not when The Writerwas there) to Mount Triglav, and historic churches on the lake shore.

Savica Waterfall

Savica Waterfall

Savica Waterfall (Slap Savica). At the western end of Lake Bohinj, a pathway leads via 510 steps up to Slovenia’s most impressive waterfall. Seniors get a 50% discount on the entry charge, but the route should only be attempted if you are feeling reasonably fit. The Writerwalked up in pouring rain, but it was well worth it to see the swollen river cascading down.

How to get there

The Writerdrove there from Hungary – an easy drive, almost entirely on motorways. Charges are applicable in both Hungary and Slovenia when using motorways – seeThe WriterRoad Travel Tips for toll details. Easyjet and Wizz Air fly from the UK to the Slovenian capital, Ljubljiana, only 50km away from Lake Bled and connected by frequent rail and bus services.

Accommodation

Bled has a wide range of accommodation including the central Best Western Premier Hotel Lovec, where you can get a European Senior discount rate. The Writerstayed at the 15 room Hotel GarnThe Writer“Berc”, which lived up well to its billing by TripAdviser as the number one hotel in Bled.

Hotel GarnThe WriterBerc

Hotel GarnThe Writer“Berc”

Where to eat

Bled has many good restaurants. The ones that impressedThe Writermost were the Mayer Penzion restaurant, serving high standard local fare in warm, friendly atmosphere, and the centrally situated Oštarija Peglez’n restaurant, with its tasty mixed meat platter. Of course you can’t leave Bled without sampling its cream cake, Kremna rezina – very high calorie, but worth it!

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